Girls Guide to Montmartre Paris, France

This fall I am living in Paris, France! This is my 5th time in Paris, wow. I am finally living out my dream of living here. Unfortunately, I don’t have a Visa so the longest I can stay is 90 days. During my time living in Paris I will also be traveling throughout Europe. So far, I have gone to Nice, Monaco, St. Tropez, Florence, Giverny and Mykonos, Greece. I will be going back to Nice + Florence, Strasbourg, London, Switzerland, Copenhagen, and potentially more places during the rest of my time here! I will be leaving Europe to go home to Boston for Christmas with my family and moving back to LA in January. This travel guide is about Paris though! I will probably do a few separate Paris posts but for the first post I am going to cover where I live, Montmartre, set in the 18th arrondissement of Paris. Paris is separated by arrondissements, which are essentially neighborhoods. There are are the 20 different arrondissements in Paris. Each arrondissement has its own distinctive personality and will have you feeling different types of ways as you stroll through the unique shops, parks, restaurants and tourist attractions. The arrondissements are also huge, as is Paris, and it would take more than a day to cover all of Montmartre.

Montmartre is known for its artistic history, quaint eateries and cafes, cobblestone streets, with a village atmosphere. The charming hilltop Montmartre district was once an artists village, artists like Picasso, Renoir, Picasso, Van Gogh, Monet and Dalí have lived here! It has so much character because of the artists that have lived here and is truly a destination in itself. It is mostly famous for the Sacré-Cœur, a Roman Catholic Church that is the second most visited tourist attraction in Paris, after the Eiffel Tower of course. From the top of the dome you can see all of Paris and beyond to the countryside. There are amazing views of the city from Montmartre steep winding streets. Montmartre is known as the “Bohemian Village On The Hill.” Montmartre at times feels worlds away from the city because of its location from some of the main attractions of Paris and the steep hills you need to walk up to get to it, but it is very easy to get to central Paris from here. It is easily accessible from the metro station and you can take an Uber.

Montmartre is also known for Rue de l'Abreuvoir where La Maison Rose lives. La Maison Rose “the pink house” in Montmartre is an iconic spot that was frequented by famous artists, singers and writers like artists Pablo Picasso + Salvador Dalí and singer Dalida. It is arguably the most photographed spot in Montmartre. This brings me to Restaurants you should go to in Montmartre:

La Maison Rose: I would recommend this perfect pink restaurant spot for wine and appetizers. They have a very small menu for dinner including one pasta, a salad, meat and fish option. The pasta is vegan with homemade pesto and I am definitely going back to try it soon. Their appetizers have gluten free and vegan options of mezze as well as a cheese plate that I got. My favorite thing about La Maison Rose is that the wines are all organic or biodynamic wines from domaines and chateau that produce these types of wines. They also have coffee and many desserts including my personal favorite, vegan carrot cake! The cozy house is a perfect spot for a rainy day inside or on a sunny day there is seats all outside to sit at. There are 2 floors of the house and they also sell the cutest La Maison Rose in seasons post cards that I of course had to buy! Definitely go here even for a picture but I do recommend at least stopping for a drink.

A short walk away from La Maison Rose is Place du Tertre, the popular square of Montmartre. I have come here a lot since I have been in Paris because it is a 5 minute walk from my place and always bustling!

La Mere Catherine is my go to spot here in the square. It also happens to be the oldest restaurant in Place du Tertre and was once a church. Here they have the classic Parisian seating facing outward to the square full of artists painting, cheering their wine, and it’s the perfect place to people watch. Inside, they have a piano bar where they bring in different talented singers accompanied on the piano playing traditional French songs.

Au Clairon Des Chasseurs is another spot in Place du Tetre that I would recommend. I have come here a few times and have enjoyed a glass of wine, pizza and crepes. This restaurant is across the square to the left of La mere Catherine. It’s another busy bistro with sidewalk tables on the square facing the artists painting portraits of tourists. This restaurant stood out to be because it is blue rather than the typical red coloring of French brasseries. Inside there is a glass roof creating a mythical ambiance and there is always a live jazz band playing fun French songs and some guests even got up to dance the night away. I highly recommend the cheese and vegetable crepe it was delicious, I no lie ate every single bite.

Moulin De La Galette This restaurant is located in an old mill and is known for being the frequented spot of celebrity Dalida and was painted by Renoir. It serves French classics in a cozy dining room or on the lovely terrace where people watching is particularly great because so many tourists come to see this spot. Before dinner make sure to walk over to Dalida Square to see the famous Dalida statue pictured below!

Autour Du Moulin Another restaurant located in an old mill in Montmartre, pictured about to the right. This one is a fan favorite and what I like to call a stumble upon spot. Paris is a circle, so similar to NYC you can walk to a destination many different ways. One way to get up to Montmartre involves a steep hill with no stairs, and at the top lives Autour Du Moulin. On our way home from The Opera to my Montmartre apartment we bumped into this gem of a restaurant. It is not chic, it may be as old as the windmill ontop of it, but it was special. It overlooks Paris with a perfect view of the gold domed Les Invalles. Sunset here is my personal favorite and the cheese plate is truly to die for. I am very very picky and have tried many cheese plates throughout Paris.. to me this is the best one you will get.

Pizzico Paris Some of the BEST pizza and pasta I have seriously ever ate! Pizza and pasta is probably my favorite food so you’d think I would have moved to Italy. But here in Paris I have found a spot near my apartment that makes wood fired pizza’s for you right in front of you and amazing homemade pasta. The cozy spot is full of the nicest servers and chefs, I highly recommend the truffle pizza!

Bombarde Mediterranean Cuisine in Paris has never tasted better. This pink awning chic level 10 restaurant transported me to Greece with not only it’s menu but decor of melting wax candles and straw lamps.

Carrette This TikTok famous restaurant is known for its tea time hot chocolate. This location of Carette is more of a pick up window style but you will still get the amazing hot chocolate, crepes, gelato, and macaroons here.

Coeur Sacre Right below the Sacrè Couer lives this restaurant. A perfect spot for lunch after sight seeing in Montmartre. We came here for a light lunch after shopping and exploring. We got the tomato burrata tartine and not only was it amazing but it was huge and a great price. Unlike tourist spots near the Eiffel Tower where it is typically overpriced and not great, I was happily surprised in this spot.

Le progress: Come here for brunch or drinks at night! It’s always a good vibe at this corner spot below the church. The pink and brown menus matching my purse made me happy but the coffee with a touch of mocha made my day!

Mama Roma: Another spot for amazing PIZZA in Paris. This is a perfect spot for a quick bite. They have pre-made slices that they stick in the oven for you when you order. The slices are HUGE and so yummy.

Les Petits Mitron: There’s something about a tiny chocolate chip cookie melts my heart.  These cookies were not only petite but also amazingly delicious. I could have ate 10 more tbh!

Montmartre Shopping:

Montmartre is my favorite part of Paris this time around for many reasons, one being the shopping. Montmartre has the typical French boutiques like Minelli, ba&sh, the Kooples, Maje and more but they also have little gems of spots that have my heart!

La Fabrique Du 18: Homemade art and gifts exclusively from residents of Montmartre. One day when I was inside I was admiring a sweater and the knitter of it came up to me and told me she made it! Very cool and authentic. I got this unique tote bag and dried bouquet of flowers here.

Ladybird: This accessories store in Montmartre is hard to miss! The colorful socks, gloves, tights and accessories shine through from the store window. I absolutely had to buy 2 pairs of the frilly lace socks in pink and white and debating on going back for more!

La chaise longue: Have some room in your suitcase? This is a great spot for gifts on the bulkier side. Slippers with cute sayings, wine glasses, robes, and the coziest of blankets! I wish I could take it all home for Christmas gifts. 

Rue De Abbesses: The next 3 shops are on Rue De Abbesses which is home to a lot of shopping and restaurants and they even have a Christmas Market coming to Paris in December!

Les Boutique Des Anges: Calling all angel lovers. This boutique is cherub crazy. Cherub soap? They got it. Cherub Paris postcards, of course! A great store for gifting 

Jimmy fairly: My new favorite semi- affordable sunglasses. Think a chicer Ray Ban.

Antoine & Lili: I’ve noticed this pink and pastel store a few times throughout Paris. Although on the pricier side this is a great store for trendy yet practical pieces.

Souvenirs: Maybe it’s because I live here but Montmartre is my favorite spot for tourist shopping! To be specific, my favorite store is Petit Jour Paris.

Coffee Shops:

Parisians are quite popularly known for drinking espresso but I am a cappuccino/ lattè gal myself. I also prefer oat milk over regular milk so in order to find a non dairy latte your best bet is going to a coffee shop over a cafè. Yes there IS a difference! Coffee shops typically focus their menu on coffees and pastries. A cafè in Paris is actually by definition, a restaurant. You go to a cafè for breakfast, lunch and dinner.. a coffee shop for coffee and maybe sometimes brunch.

Blackbird Coffee: Maybe it’s because my favorite coffee shop in my hometown is Blackbird but I feel like home at this Parisian cafè. It is my favorite cafè to work and write at.  It’s also one of the only cafès I’ve found where you can get a vanilla or caramel latte. They play eclectic music all day and the barista here is a super sweet French man who memorizes his customers orders. It has a comfy indoors with green velvet mermaid shell chairs and black and gold wallpaper. They are one of the few places in Paris where it is decorated for Fall with velour pumpkins all over the place. They also have wood tables outside where people watching is specifically watching everyone wait in line for the photo booth across the street. Foto auto mat draws in many tourists which makes for some great people watching!

Les Cinq Marches: This cafè will always hold a special place in my heart because it is where I discovered the Paris Coffee Shops book. This book has brought me to coffee shops all over Paris. All with one similar thing, oat milk. My Girls Guide to Paris Coffee Shops covering all the coffee shops with oat milk and that I love in Paris is a currently work in progress. Les Cinq Marches is a great cafè right below Place du Tetre. Walk down the hill from here and see the Man in the Wall statue on your right then take another right and you’ll find the blue awning of this fabulous cafe. Although I haven't eaten here yet the food always look good when I come in. They also have some of the tastiest looking carrot cake. This coffee shop was founded by friends, a designer and an actress, who have lived in Montmartre their entire lives. I have found that Montmartre is one of those places that really honors their roots, some may say once you live in Montmartre you’ll never want to live anywhere else.

The Beans on Fire: There are 2 of these coffee shops in Paris, one in the 11th arrondissement and one in Montmartre. This red awning coffee shop has amazing espresso and surprisingly one of the best iced lattes I have tried. One thing to note about Paris is iced lattes are hard to come by and even harder to be good. Sadly many times when ordering an iced latte I regret it, it’s more like a watery coffee than iced. Here at The Beans on Fire it was perfect! They even had liquid sugar for me to add to it which is extremely rare. The barista was super sweet here and she spoke perfect English. It’s a great place to sit in work and I highly recommend trying a sweet treat here.

Lady Marmelade: If you ask me they deserve a 10/10 for creativity at this cafè. Montmartre is home to Moulin Rouge which is popularly displayed in the famous music video by icons Christina Agulaira, PINK, Lil Kim and MYA. They not only name the cafè after this song but they also have mocktails named after each of the icons. The day I came here I wasn’t feeling well so I got a carrot juice and it was amazing. I did ask and they serve oat milk lattès too so I’ll be back for that and a Christina Agulaira Mocktail for sure!

Chez ta Souer: The coffee here was a little too bitter for me but the vibes were high and it makes a great spot to work at! The airy room with hanging plants also offers a pumpkin spiced latte which I will definitely try in the future.

More to do in Montmartre:

Moulin Rouge: If you do one thing I tell you to do, please go to Moulin Rouge! ♥️ This is one of the best experiences I’ve truly ever had! I went with my mom and was praying that she would enjoy it as much as me and she surely did! She’s 60 and had just as much love for this show as me, so I’d say it’s good for all ages. You get a bottle of champagne at your dinner table and enjoy a spectacular show. They also offer a dinner service for a little more money but I am picky so we went to dinner beforehand. This cabaret draws tourists from all around and is surely to sell out. If the dates of the show that you are looking for are sold out you can head to the ticket box next door to Moulin Rouge (also the windmill is just a site to see) around 2pm and check if they have had any cancellations! We were so lucky to get a ticket this way.

Sacrè Coeur: This Roman Catholic church in Montmartre is the second most visited tourist destination in Paris, after the Eiffel Tower! From here you can see all of Paris and beyond to the countryside. I luckily live a 5 minute walk from here and it has become one of my favorite spots to come to to listen to live music, take in the views of Paris and even go to Mass! Although the mass is in French I love the feeling of being connected to God in this ancient church.

Museum of Montmartre: I highly recommend this museum if you are interested in Art and Artists. This museum’s very grounds was formerly home to many famous artists including Renoir, Utrillo, Theres also a great view of Montmartre from inside the house and a vineyard onsite. Le Clos Montmartre is the only remaining vines in Paris and I learnt that Montmartre used to actually be the countryside. They also have a designated garden and cafe in honor of the famous Renoir. The cafe is beautiful and the perfect spot for lunch after the day at the museum. There is currently an expedition in the museum of Fernande Olivier who was a french model and artist and Pablo Picasso’s lover. She had written diaries about her and Pablo Picassos relationship that she was going to publish but was paid by Pablo after them breaking up to not. 1 million franks to note, he clearly didn’t want anyone to see his obsession for her. Which was said to go as far as having a shrine of her in his home to convince her to not work anymore. Men… There was so much art and beauty in this museum!

Montmartre Carousel: The beautiful antique carousel below the Sacre Coeur is a site to see and a great picture spot.

Visit the Parks: Montmartre also has many parks that are beautiful to read at or people watch. In the park below the Sacrè Coeur Square Louise Michel there is a beautiful antique looking carousel Carrousel de Saint-Pierre that you can ride. The other park showed is also very close to Sacrè Coeur called Square Marcel Bleustein Blanchet. This park is more garden like and has a play area for kids. There is also some famous monuments to see, like The Man in the Wall based on a story by French writer, Marcel Aymé.

After being to Paris 5 times it’s no surprise to me why so many famous artists and celebrities chose Montmartre as their home more than a century ago. It has so much charm and history because of these people that have lived here. Times before in Paris I have visited Montmartre but never saw it the way I am seeing it now. The history and background of this place excites me with every street corner I turn. Sometimes I feel removed from the hustle & bustle of the tourist attractions of Paris like the Louvre and Eiffel Tower and I honestly like it that way. I ended up here by chance.. mostly because the apartment was fully pink, but I like to say there are no accidents. I love it here so much!

Stay tuned for my future blog posts: Girls Guide to Paris Coffee Shops, Girls Guide to Paris with your bestie, Girls Guide to Paris with your Mom, Holiday Guide and more! xx

Thanks so much for reading my words and if you’re all the way at the end know how much ILY!

Jules